My GWR E37 tri-compo is ready for painting, built from the Slater’s kit. Earlier I did a blow-by-blow account of the C19 build from the same range, so this post will focus on new experiences and things that were different.
There was more flash around the windows than in the C19 kit, especially at the bottom. The window edges are quite thin and hard to distinguish from the flash, and therefore easily damaged when the flash is removed. Inspecting the sides from behind helped.
This time I remembered to drill out the holes for the door furniture before assembling the sides.
A drawing of the interior layout can be found on the excellent GWR Coaches website. The E37s had two lavatories at the center, accessed from the neighbouring First Class compartments. The kit does not provide for this, so I rebuilt the arrangements to indicate it. No arm rests though, or loos in the lavs!
I fitted the seats with a slight gap each side. I find it easier to fit the glazing that way.
The bogies in these kits are designed for inside bearings, but I prefer ordinary pinpoint bearings. So as in the C19 build, I applied a bit of freestyling (thanks to Darwinian on RMweb for the idea).
I used Wizard waisted bearings (ref no. 40002), with the tip filed down to accommodate the axle boxes as can be seen on the r/h bearing here. The axles boxes themselves also had to be opened up inside to fit over the bearings, done with a round file as shown.
The brake shoes were a very tight fit against the wheels and tended to jam. I know others have had the same problem. I found that it helps to bend the folded brass tabs that hold the brakes backwards, then gently bend the brake shoe itself forwards to align with the wheel.
The E37 kit has Dean 6’4 Bogies (left) while the C10 kit has 8’6 bogies (right). Selecting coaches with different bogies is a nice touch by Slaters.
The two types of Dean bogie in direct comparison. On top is the Dean 8´6 wheelbase bogie, which actually has a shorter overall frame and springs than the 6’4 wheelbase bogie below it. Queen posts also positioned differently.
The queen posts have to be cut to allow the bogie to swivel.
Trial fit of the bogies.
I then fitted the underframe details. A slight problem here: If fitted as per the instructions, the vacuum cylinders collide with one of the bogies. So I moved the cylinders a little to one side.
Next, the footboards. There was a factory error with one of the long footboards and one of the solebars, both oddly divided at one end.
So I built up new end parts from styrene…
…which wasn’t too noticeable when fitted.
The lower footboards were then fitted to the bogies. I used my own spacers (in the box) to adjust the ride height of the bogies. I find the etched ones that come with the kit a bit fickle.
Once I’d found a good ride height for the bogies (i.e. the minimum required to let them swing freely), the center footboard sat too high.
The brackets for the offending footboard only have one fixed position - so I resorted to a crude fix, using pliers to first straighten and then gently re-bend the brackets at a lower position, as seen here.
The kit provides for sprung buffers, but I went for fixed ones. A great drama ensued. One buffer ram got stuck in the housing too far out, locked solid by Loctite. I raged at the injustice, the Universe darkened, planets imploded. Eventually I managed to remove the buffer beam, carve out the buffer housing, cut off the buffer ram, shorten it, and butt-solder it back on the guide. Given my soldering skills, that was a miracle. The rest of that day I was Alexander the Great, conqueror of worlds. Modelling involves epic battles every day, who needs TV.
The gas lamptops and piping were fitted using handrail wire from 51L. The lamp tops for the toilets add a bit of character. I did the piping for these with microstrip (later filed neat).
It strikes me that toilet lamp tops are poorly covered in the literature. Can’t think why. They are rarely seen in photos, but I assume that’s what we see in this Paddington shot, on the second coach in platform 5.
As built the coach weighed in at 87 grams. That felt a bit light. I believe Iain Rice said 25 grams per axle. I like my stock a bit heavy so went for 110 grams total.
The extra weight was added using Liquid Gravity from Deluxe Models, stuck down with thinned Card Glue from the same outfit. I’ve been monitoring that combo on other stock for 10+ years, so far all is well.
So that’s where I’m at. Didn’t have a coin to indicate size, so grabbed an Oryx. Very disorienting, scale is an interesting thing.
Door handles, vacuum pipes, couplings etc will be fitted after painting.
I’m pondering the livery. The plan was to go for the full pre-1908 chocolate & cream as per my normal modelling period and illustrated on the box. But the 1908-12 all-brown is growing on me. Decisions, decisions.