GWR saddle- and pannier tanks form the mainstay of Farthing’s current loco roster, and recently several have been on the workbench for a bit of detailing and tinkering.
My new Buffalo Tank is now finished. As described earlier, the body is a modified 3D print from Bill Davies, fitted to a Bachmann 57xx chassis converted to outside cranks.
3D printed loco bodies still need detailing, which I personally like. In this shot alone there are detailing parts from Brassmasters, 51L, Alan Gibson, Comet, Nu-Cast, H&A Models and even Hornby. A whole ecosystem right there.
Cab glazing was cut on my Silhouette from 5 thou clear Evergreen styrene. Lifted with top grade saliva on a cocktail stick and mounted with a light smear of Testors’ window cement.
The number plates are 3D printed transfers (sic) from Railtec. First time I've tried them. They look good, arrived quickly and were easy to apply (no connection).
That said, the finish is not my best effort. And there’s a kink in the footplate on this side. I dropped the body early on, and despite repairs it must have distorted at the crack at some point. But it’s a smooth runner, which makes up for many sins in my book.
I’ve also done some detailing and TLC on my other tank locos. Here is the 1854 ST receiving attention.
And here's my other Buffalo, an elderly second-hand Alan Gibson build that has been gradually detailed over the years. This time I fitted smokebox handrails (about time!) and buffer beam detail. As a result, it has made a comeback in the daily roster. Never too late to start living.
The vac pipes are from Dart Castings. Contrary to what I thought, photos of Edwardian Buffalos show the rear vac pipes fitted on the right (not left) side of the buffer beam.
Much enthusiasm. I tried out Accurascale’s readymade screw-link couplings. They are convenient but the tommy bar points away from the hook, which looks odd when coupled.
After various efforts to modify them, I realized that the plastic is so bendy that the lower half could simply be twisted 180 degrees. Bit wonky this one, though.
There followed a diversion to see how GWR screw-link couplings were stowed when not in use. A=Stowed to the right. B= Stowing hook beneath right hand buffer. C= Stowed to the left (post WW1 photos?). D= Stowed on coupling hook. E= Stowed on coupling hook despite stowing hook in evidence. F= Hanging loose (in yards/when shunting).
The Accurascale screw-links can’t be stowed to the side, as they are the wrong type – it requires a round-ended top shackle. But stowing them on the coupling hook is possible.
I’ve made some more buckets to hang on bunker hooks, using this etch from Brengun. Thanks to Paul for the tip, details in his blog.
Unfortunately my poor soldering skills don’t do them justice and I struggled with the handles. But they are neat little things.
A bucket in place, with fire irons from Kernow Models (shortened to fit tank bunkers).
A new batch of GWR loco lamps arrived recently from ModelU, these are the front version with clear lenses.
Rather than use the supplied lenses – which I feel stand out too far – I experimented and ended up painting the lenses on, followed by a coat of gloss varnish and then topped with Testors’ glazing cement.
The Testors’ was applied as a small blob with a toothpick while the lamp was lying flat, followed by another blob once dry. This creates a convex shape.
I quite like the effect. Though here, it seems I used a tail lamp design for a headlamp. Must be the whisky.
Space can be tight in Edwardian cabs, so I thought I’d try some Modelu 1:87 figures as footplatemen. The photo shows a comparison. Interesting that they are almost the same height as Andrew Stadden’s Edwardian 1:76 figures.
When driver Charles Mell first met the new fireman, he knew it would be a long day.
I’m undecided whether the 1:87 figures are too small. They don’t seem particularly energetic either!
A new arrival on the workbench, the Accurascale 57xx seen here upside down next to my half-cab 1854 PT. Once the wiper pick-up issue had been sorted (discussed elsewhere), it proved a very smooth runner.
The Accurascale offering is out of my period, but I wanted to see if the chassis might take over the role of the Bachmann 57xx/8750 chassis, which I have used under several of my kitbuilt and converted locos. Here they are compared.
Drag race. On the right is a test fit of the Accurascale chassis under my 1854 ST body (modified SEF kit), which normally sits on a Bachmann chassis. The different cut-outs in the footplates and the overhang at the rear can possibly be addressed. I'm less certain about the stay-alive capacitors and PCB at the front, which get in the way. The chassis will not move without the PCB, though hard-wiring may be possible. To the left is the Accurascale body on the Bachmann chassis, just for the heresy of it.
I had particuarly hoped that the Accurascale chassis might fit under some of the 3D printed bodies from Bill Davies' current range, but it looks a bit tricky. To the right above is my Buffalo body from his range, mounted on the Accurascale chassis.
Backdating the Accurascale 57xx to a half-cab 2721 Class may, however, be worth a go. Work would include shortening the frame and fitting a new bunker. The current bunker certainly comes off easily enough.
So far, though, I’ve just lightly detailed the 57xx so it can run in my out-of-period sessions. RTR coal on the right, and proper Welsh coal in the bunker with lead tucked beneath. Incidentally, I’m a fan of sticky Tesa tape for keeping small screws etc from disappearing, as seen at the back here.
Much bling. The spares box turned up some etched number plates for 5779 from CGW (are they still in business?), compared here with the Accurascale options.
Some flashy bits toned down, but no weathering until I decide whether to convert it to a 2721. In any case, the RTR model Anno Domini 2026 is certainly an impressive piece of kit.
After all the fancy detailing, operational reality sets in. Fitting Sprat & Winkle couplings to a loco chassis can be difficult, so my locos just have a bar fitted at each end.
One challenge with this is that the loco coupling hook can obstruct the S&W hook. My S&W hooks are therefore bent lightly to one side. Not ideal but hard to see and works for me.
I am now just itching to get off the test track. My layouts have been packed away for practical reasons (christmas and grandchildren), but soon the coast will be clear.
Good thing, because the locos are getting restless!